• Do try this at home: why restaurants always ruin roasties, crumble and macaroni cheese

    7 days ago - By The Guardian

    Restaurants are terrible at anything that takes time - or is too easy. So cancel the booking and start cooking Journalists are paid to report what they see and, as a result, they get to see terrible things. Being a restaurant critic, I know far too much about this. Oh, the atrocities I have witnessed. The most recent was at the Birnam Brasserie inside the Gleneagles Hotel. They called it a cassoulet. I would call it the death of all that is good and hopeful in the world. The problem with that so-called “cassoulet” - and yes, I'm using those quotation marks like weapons - seems to be not...
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